what is ammonia

Hair Structure and Coloring Process

The structure of hair consists of two key parts: the follicle, which is rooted in the skin layer and acts as the hair's root, and the shaft, which is the visible part of the hair. The follicle is home to the hair's active, living cells. The natural color of the hair is the result of pigments called melanin, which are produced in this section. When melanin production slows down or stops, the hair loses its natural color and turns gray. The entire process of coloring or changing hair color only affects the non-living tissue of the hair shaft. In this context, natural dyes like henna, which have a botanical origin, are considered a safe and damage-free option for hair. Next, we will examine ammonia and the benefits of ammonia-free hair dyes.

 

What is Ammonia?

Ammonia, with the chemical formula $\text{NH}_3$, is a colorless inorganic gas compound known for its pungent, distinct odor, similar to household cleaning products, and is considered one of the cornerstones of industrial and agricultural chemistry. This substance is naturally produced from the decomposition of organic matter, such as animal waste or dead plants. On a larger scale, it is manufactured in chemical plants through the Haber-Bosch process, where atmospheric nitrogen is combined with hydrogen under high temperature and pressure. Ammonia dissolves in water to form ammonium hydroxide ($\text{NH}_4\text{OH}$), an alkaline solution with a pH of about 11, which enhances its basic properties.

Historically, ammonia was used in ancient Egypt in the 17th century BC as ammoniac salts in temples, but its industrial discovery by Fritz Haber in the early 20th century revolutionized the production of nitrogen fertilizers. Today, over 180 million tons are produced annually, primarily for fertilizers, plastics, and disinfectants. In daily applications, ammonia acts as a surface cleaner, car antifreeze, and even in industrial refrigerators, but in high concentrations, it is toxic and can cause irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory system.

Chemically, ammonia is a weak base that accepts protons from acids and participates in reduction reactions, such as the production of hydrazine, or in nitration processes. In the human body, ammonia is produced from the breakdown of proteins and is converted to urea by the liver; disruption of this process can lead to conditions like hepatic encephalopathy. With green advancements, recent research is focused on the production of renewable ammonia using solar energy, which could reduce dependence on fossil fuels. Overall, ammonia symbolizes the duality of chemistry: on one hand, it is essential for agriculture, and on the other, potentially dangerous when misused. Understanding it is key for safe use in various industries, including hair care and beauty, where its alkaline role is prominent, opening the hair layers for color penetration without completely destroying its protein structure.

 

The Role of Ammonia in Hair Dye

Ammonia plays a key role in hair dye as an alkalizing agent and cuticle opener, a process that allows artificial color pigments to penetrate deep into the hair's cortex and create a permanent change. Without it, dyes would remain superficial and temporary. In permanent dye formulations, ammonia increases the hair's pH from its natural 4.5–5.5 to 9–10, causing the hair's outer layer (cuticle) to swell and open, like opening the gates of a fortress for soldiers to enter. This facilitates the penetration of hydrogen peroxide (the oxidizing agent) and precursor pigments like PPD (Paraphenylenediamine).

According to studies by companies such as Wella, ammonia not only opens the cuticle but also stabilizes the color inside the hair by forming ammonium complexes, extending its durability for 6–8 weeks. This feature is essential for lightening dark hair or achieving significant color change. Chemically, ammonia reacts with hydrogen peroxide to generate free radicals that oxidize the hair's natural melanin, and then the new pigments are deposited this oxidation process is the fundamental mechanism of permanent hair color.

In the cosmetic industry, where the global market is estimated to exceed $30 billion by 2025, ammonia is used in about 70% of professional dyes because it guarantees up to 100% gray coverage and allows for 4–5 levels of lift (lightening). However, its role is dual: while it provides high efficacy, it can also degrade keratin proteins by up to 20%, leading to brittleness. During the coloring process, ammonia volatilizes and creates a pungent odor, but this vapor is part of the penetration mechanism. Ultimately, ammonia's role in hair dye transcends a simple chemical; it is the bridge between the desire for change and color permanence, transforming the hair with every drop and allowing consumers to experience a new look without a quick return to the original state, albeit with an awareness of the hidden costs to hair health.

 

Ammonia-Free Hair Dyes

Ammonia-free hair dyes are recognized as a milder option that causes less damage to the hair structure. These products are typically composed of multiple ingredients: one or more alkaline substitutes for ammonia, oxidizing agents like hydrogen peroxide, and also sensitizers. Each of these chemical compounds can, in turn, have negative effects on hair health. These chemical compounds work together like a coordinated team, with each component playing a specific role in creating the color change. The alkaline substance facilitates the penetration of other color compounds into the hair by swelling the hair shaft and lifting the protective cuticle layer. Simultaneously, hydrogen peroxide not only degrades the hair's natural pigments but also causes dryness and brittleness in the hair strands.

 

Advantages of Ammonia-Free Hair Dyes

Ammonia-free hair dyes offer several benefits that make them a superior choice for health-conscious consumers. These advantages span from the mildness of the formulation to a wide color spectrum, collectively providing a safer and more pleasant experience.

Mild Formulation

By eliminating ammonia and using gentler alkaline agents, these hair dyes preserve the natural hair structure. They guarantee the long-term health of the hair strands by not damaging the protective layer or aggressively manipulating natural pigments.

Repair and Care

Enriched with compounds such as Provitamin B5, Argan Oil, and Aloe Vera Extract, these hair dyes simultaneously repair the hair while coloring it. They provide the necessary moisture and create a protective barrier against $\text{UV}$ radiation and environmental factors.

Spectrum of Natural Colors

These products deliver natural depth and shine by creating shades that harmonize with the hair's original color. Their ability to provide excellent coverage for gray hair without creating an artificial look is a significant advantage.

Freedom in Color Selection

Due to their semi-permanent nature, the results can be easily corrected if the outcome is unsatisfactory. This feature allows users to experiment with various colors without the worry of permanent consequences.

Disadvantages and Mechanism

Higher Cost

The price of these products is typically 30–40% higher than conventional hair dyes. Furthermore, professional application in salons entails an additional cost that should be considered.

Limited Durability

Despite their high quality, these dyes usually fade after 8–10 washes. This characteristic necessitates frequent color re-application, which can be challenging for some users.

Mechanism of Action

These products use gentler ammonia alternatives, such as MEA (Monoethanolamine), to open the hair scales with less intensity. They do not destroy the natural pigments but rather create a layer of color on the hair's surface, making them safe for use even in sensitive conditions.

 

Supplier Information

Persia Kamandar Paytakht Trading Company is a key player in the supply chain of the country's chemical, cosmetic, and health industries. As a specialized supplier of raw materials for cosmetics and health products, the company focuses on importing and distributing high-quality raw materials, fulfilling the needs of manufacturers of cosmetic, health, detergent, and pharmaceutical products. The main goal of Persia Kamandar Paytakht is to provide raw materials that meet international standards, helping manufacturers deliver their final products to consumers with the highest quality, efficacy, and safety, thus contributing effectively to the development of the domestic industry.

 

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is the substitute for ammonia in hair coloring?

The primary substitute for ammonia is MEA (Monoethanolamine), which provides a milder alkalinity and has less odor.

Why are semi-permanent dyes better than permanent ones?

Semi-permanent dyes are generally considered better than permanent ones because they cause less damage (no need to open the cuticle), fade gradually, and require less commitment (lasting 3–4 weeks).

Does the use of Monoethanolamine cause dryness?

The use of Monoethanolamine (MEA) can cause dryness because MEA is a liquid and is known to strip natural hair oils more extensively than ammonia.